But in the rare-wine world, doubts are endemic; murkiness is built into a product that is concealed by tinted glass and banded wooden cases ... There were glue and stencils and pattern scissors ...

After the drawing is complete, Carioto places the translucent sheet on a piece of rubber and, using an X-ACTO knife, cuts out all of the lettering, numbers and images to create a stencil. This grim ...