THE SOUTH OF FRANCE has a constellation of some of the best restaurants in the world, but it’s not easy to find the traditional Provençal cooking that so besotted M.F.K. Fisher and Alice Waters ...

Krenc calls it “our caviar.” Mauro Colagreco, a celebrity chef who operates a three-Michelin-star restaurant, Le Mirazur, in Menton, has praised it and features it in fish dishes and desserts.